Thursday, 24 July 2008

Started at Last

Hi All,
Arrived in St. JeanPied de Port safe and well in the company of a Danish matron and an Italian musician. We managed to mumble some conversation (in Italian, French, Spanish and English) as we passed through the beautiful scenery on the afternoon slow train.

Got the credential (pilgrim passport) which allows me to stay at cheap youth hostels along the way. Stayed the night in "´L`Esprit de Chemin" again and ate a lovely meal of soup and vegitarian pie. It was a move up the culinary ladder from last year's spinich pie.

As always the gathering was international ranging from Hungary, Ireland and even Australia. The Australian was a bit non-plussed with the vegitarian approach to food but, like the rest of us, made the best of it. They do supply the wine though which can make up for lots.

The big surprise was meeting a lady, Agnes (from Holland), whom Mark and I met last year on the Camino. She is back working at the hostel for a couple of weeks just for the fun of it and then off with her husband north along the France section of the Camino heading for Le Puy. Small world or what?

Kicked off the walk over the hill on Wednesday morning at 7.30. For those that don't know the route, the hill is bigger than Ben Nevis (4700 feet) and a test of stamina. Well my stamina was well and truely tested. Half dead is not the phrase.

It didn't help that the rucksack was at least 2kg overweight, I am 4kg overweight and it was roasting the posterior off one (and all). As I struggled up and along it became clear that those who said "yiraffyirheid" were not completely wrong. Never again. My mental days are gone along with most of my joints.

And the effects are not yet over. On frequent occasions I had to lie down to get a rest and at one point I chose a nice shady clump of trees and dozed there for about 30 minutes. During that period I must have been a God send for the local insect population and now I am displaying a varied range of insect bites. My face was never pretty but it would really frighten the weans now.

Finally got to Roncesvalles on the other side of the hill in España. Met lots new people of all ages, sizes and nationalities. Went to the local mass for peregrinos in the Monastery church. It's been around since 1219 and most of those attending must, like myself, have felt as if they had been around for that long too. Slept like a baby and snored like a bear (apparently).

Took the bus to Pamplona, waving to all the perigrinos as I passed them by. Hated doing it but....I could get used to this way of doing the Camino.

Took and hour to get to Pamplona, passing through all the wee towns that I had walked through last year.

Managed to get lost trying to find a hostel no longer existed but got to see the famous bullring (from the outside) as compensation. Would have had a coffee at the the famous Cafe Iruña (where Heminway used to hang out) but I didn't want to spend all my holiday money in the one day.

Finally got sorted out in the newly opened hostel and moved out to see the city.

It is surprisingly small which is handy in that all the sights worth seeing (churches mainly) are close together. It is really a beautiful city.

Spent a couple of hours in the Gothic Cathedral and that is just some place. Lots of photos to bore those that want to see them. Where did all the money come from to build these edifices? South America probablt.

Come two o'clock the place shuts down until about six, hence I am taking chance to add something to the blog.

Off now to visit some more sights and get fed. Back on the road tomorrow, walking to Puente La Reina. Only one hill and in relative terms it is a piece of cake.
cheers,
The Bitten One.

4 comments:

Unknown said...

Now, you know that you are really enjoying it and that the first day is the worst.

I honestly wish that I was there Dude.

thingbie said...

Dear Sir
I thought I was surfing to site dedicated to that wonderful song by Willie Nelson - imagine my consternation when I was confronted by the heat-addled rantings of someone out for a stroll in the Spanish countryside...

Hi Arthur - good to hear from you - you seem to be enjoying it which is great - imagine running into someone you met the year before - what's the chances - Your blog is making Mark wish he was there (I wish he was there too ! hehe) As for myself , I am happy to experience the adventure through your great writing - bring it on !!!

One day I shall do the camino or something like it.

Take care amigo

Kenny

Brian D said...

Hola Pilgrim
Remember white Tiger balm is good for the bites..Ive got some here!!
I seem to recall 'never again ' was in last years blog!!.. your loving it really and no doubt will be there again next year...departing from Porto..
Its all downhill from here
PS BJD says thanks for the card/pressy
Enjoy B

To Santiago and beyond said...

How well you know me.