Posts
Hi All,
Just a note to say thanks for staying with me during the journey.
Strange to be back in Santiago, a wee bit too familiar. Was going to walk to Finisterre but got a touch of the tummy bug again and decided that staying put was a better idea and as it turned out it was the better idea.
Met up with all the people I had met on the road and many of us had reached the end point of energy. Had a few good meals together and as always reviewed the highs and lows. Happy to say there were more highs and we found the space to laugh off the lows.
I took the time to have real look around this time and enjoyed seeing the bits, eg the market and park, which I had missed the first time round.
The place is just as packed as ever. A colleague at work, Fernando, had pointed out that all the jugglers, musicians and street theatre people had been plying their trade in Santiago since the pilgrimage started way back in the 900's. That put the circus in perspective for me and I was less disappointed with it. Still a bloody circus though.
Managed to get home in one piece and have been back at work for a couple of weeks. However that too is now over. I retire from UWS tomorrow (31/08/2008). Plenty of time now to plan the next walk which looks like being the Camino del Norte next year.
Buen Camino, compadres.
Saturday, 30 August 2008
Sunday, 10 August 2008
Rolling On to the End
Hi,
I had a nice time in Sarria. It was my birthday and I had dinner and a wee brandy with a very congenial Irishman, Poriag from Port Loise. However left Sarria at 5.30 with no great regrets after a fitful nights sleep. The walk to Portomarin was very good, kind of uphill most of the way but through a lot of lovely, Scottish like, forest trails. I suppose forest trails are the same the world over.
As staed earlier, I push it a bit to make sure I got an bed in an albergue and fortunately I did (just). Many others were less fortunate and had sleep on the town hall floor or outside in the park. It is said that you have not really experinced the Camino unless you have slept outside at least once. Well that is a pile of compensatory mince constructed by those who have had to do so (in my humble opinion, which will be a first, ie a humble opinion).
I like Portomarin, nice wee town focused around the main square dominated by the big though architecturally suspect church. I think in this place the design idea was more along the lines of BIG rather than asthetic. Good food and a good sleep, ie no one snored.
Again off in the early hours heading for Palas de Rei. The walk is now through groves of eucalyptus trees which continue almost all the way to Santiago. Very peaceful and since I had given up the urge to charge ahead, I had the chance to relax and really enjoy the walk. A bit long at 18mls but when you do this at a stroll it gets to be enjoyable.
Kept passing and being passed by the same group of people which is part of the process of the Camino. Wee chats at rest times, sharing food and patter and developing relationships which tend to last until we reach Santiago. No pressure.
Got to Palas de Rei and found a bed easily enough. This town lacks any sense of history and is pretty much a place to leave asap, which at 5.30 the following morning, was exactly what I was doing.
On the exit route I met a German girl, Fransica, who had got lost and ended up in the woods getting pretty frantic. It is pitch black at 5.30. She was in tears when I found her and being the hero told her not to worry but I would take us along the right route. She was praising my gallantery until we both realised that I was leading her back into the woods from which she had just escaped. Took the same wrong turn as her didn`t I. Dumpling, you don´t have to tell. If your looking for an eejit I know one personally.
Finally took the correct road and she was reunited with her brother and the others with whom she was walking. Next time she gets lost I am looking the other way.
Having recovered what little dignity I had left I hoofed off quickly towards Arzua, another stop on the road which did not over impress me with its architectural grace and design. In fact it had none. Met up with a French Canadian, Lucas, who cooked a chicken stew which was to die for. Absolutely wonderful and the best meal by far I have had in three weeks.
We were joined by a lady from Lichenstien who has been on the various Caminos for the past 3 years. She is not a tramp, just a mendicant with no desire to go back home. She is now on her way along the Camino Portuguese towards Porto and after that it looks like Rome followed by Jerusalem. That takes a special type of mind set.
Up and out at the crack of 6.30.
The past two days had been pretty heavy walking and being a bit tired I was debating throughout the morning whether to stop after 15mls at a place called Arco do Pino or carry on for the full 23mls to Monte do Gozo. I made up my mind that I would stop at Arco.
Guess what, I was chatting with a Spaniard called Nacho and walked right by it without even seeing it. During our conversation I mentioned that I was stopping at Arco. This generated one of those, "This guy must be spacer" looks from him and he proceeded to tell that we had passed it an hour ago. So it was Monte do Gozo or bust and bust was a likely result. Nevertheless I made it and producing my first blister of the walk in the process. It was a belter but, No, I did not burst it.
There are 500 beds at this blight divided up into units of 8 people across a number of huts. The first person to calculate the number of huts gets a special mention in the blog.
By 6.30 it was full and people were being turned away. That gives you an idea of the number of people on the Camino during the 1st week in August, the first week of the annual holiday for most of Spain. If you plan on doing the Camino make sure you schedule the Sarria to Santiago section outwith the first two weeks of August.
Monte do Gozo stands for Mountain of Joy. This is the height from which the medieval pilgrims got their first glimpse of Santiago. Nowadays you get your first glimpse of the sports stadium.
The traditional reason for stopping here is that people could wash off the road from themselves and their clothes in preparation for entering the Cathedral which is only 3mls hence. Much ahs been said about how dreadful the albergue is but it is just fine, clean beds, hot showers and places nearby to eat. Not a lot of style, I grant that.
And so the big morning arrives. Up and out by 7am (long lie I know) and off into Santiago. Surprisingly quiet. The walk is mainly through the suburbs along the main road into town. However the mind is set on reaching the end point and the traffic, little though it is, matters not.
And then you are there.
Pictures etc. from another site at: http://www.santiago-compostela.net/frances/en_cf32.html
Will update tomorrow, when I return home.
cheers,
Arthur
I had a nice time in Sarria. It was my birthday and I had dinner and a wee brandy with a very congenial Irishman, Poriag from Port Loise. However left Sarria at 5.30 with no great regrets after a fitful nights sleep. The walk to Portomarin was very good, kind of uphill most of the way but through a lot of lovely, Scottish like, forest trails. I suppose forest trails are the same the world over.
As staed earlier, I push it a bit to make sure I got an bed in an albergue and fortunately I did (just). Many others were less fortunate and had sleep on the town hall floor or outside in the park. It is said that you have not really experinced the Camino unless you have slept outside at least once. Well that is a pile of compensatory mince constructed by those who have had to do so (in my humble opinion, which will be a first, ie a humble opinion).
I like Portomarin, nice wee town focused around the main square dominated by the big though architecturally suspect church. I think in this place the design idea was more along the lines of BIG rather than asthetic. Good food and a good sleep, ie no one snored.
Again off in the early hours heading for Palas de Rei. The walk is now through groves of eucalyptus trees which continue almost all the way to Santiago. Very peaceful and since I had given up the urge to charge ahead, I had the chance to relax and really enjoy the walk. A bit long at 18mls but when you do this at a stroll it gets to be enjoyable.
Kept passing and being passed by the same group of people which is part of the process of the Camino. Wee chats at rest times, sharing food and patter and developing relationships which tend to last until we reach Santiago. No pressure.
Got to Palas de Rei and found a bed easily enough. This town lacks any sense of history and is pretty much a place to leave asap, which at 5.30 the following morning, was exactly what I was doing.
On the exit route I met a German girl, Fransica, who had got lost and ended up in the woods getting pretty frantic. It is pitch black at 5.30. She was in tears when I found her and being the hero told her not to worry but I would take us along the right route. She was praising my gallantery until we both realised that I was leading her back into the woods from which she had just escaped. Took the same wrong turn as her didn`t I. Dumpling, you don´t have to tell. If your looking for an eejit I know one personally.
Finally took the correct road and she was reunited with her brother and the others with whom she was walking. Next time she gets lost I am looking the other way.
Having recovered what little dignity I had left I hoofed off quickly towards Arzua, another stop on the road which did not over impress me with its architectural grace and design. In fact it had none. Met up with a French Canadian, Lucas, who cooked a chicken stew which was to die for. Absolutely wonderful and the best meal by far I have had in three weeks.
We were joined by a lady from Lichenstien who has been on the various Caminos for the past 3 years. She is not a tramp, just a mendicant with no desire to go back home. She is now on her way along the Camino Portuguese towards Porto and after that it looks like Rome followed by Jerusalem. That takes a special type of mind set.
Up and out at the crack of 6.30.
The past two days had been pretty heavy walking and being a bit tired I was debating throughout the morning whether to stop after 15mls at a place called Arco do Pino or carry on for the full 23mls to Monte do Gozo. I made up my mind that I would stop at Arco.
Guess what, I was chatting with a Spaniard called Nacho and walked right by it without even seeing it. During our conversation I mentioned that I was stopping at Arco. This generated one of those, "This guy must be spacer" looks from him and he proceeded to tell that we had passed it an hour ago. So it was Monte do Gozo or bust and bust was a likely result. Nevertheless I made it and producing my first blister of the walk in the process. It was a belter but, No, I did not burst it.
There are 500 beds at this blight divided up into units of 8 people across a number of huts. The first person to calculate the number of huts gets a special mention in the blog.
By 6.30 it was full and people were being turned away. That gives you an idea of the number of people on the Camino during the 1st week in August, the first week of the annual holiday for most of Spain. If you plan on doing the Camino make sure you schedule the Sarria to Santiago section outwith the first two weeks of August.
Monte do Gozo stands for Mountain of Joy. This is the height from which the medieval pilgrims got their first glimpse of Santiago. Nowadays you get your first glimpse of the sports stadium.
The traditional reason for stopping here is that people could wash off the road from themselves and their clothes in preparation for entering the Cathedral which is only 3mls hence. Much ahs been said about how dreadful the albergue is but it is just fine, clean beds, hot showers and places nearby to eat. Not a lot of style, I grant that.
And so the big morning arrives. Up and out by 7am (long lie I know) and off into Santiago. Surprisingly quiet. The walk is mainly through the suburbs along the main road into town. However the mind is set on reaching the end point and the traffic, little though it is, matters not.
And then you are there.
Pictures etc. from another site at: http://www.santiago-compostela.net/frances/en_cf32.html
Will update tomorrow, when I return home.
cheers,
Arthur
Saturday, 9 August 2008
More Travels
Hi All,
Have moved on a lot since I last had the chance and energy to add to the missive.
As you may remember I was in Triacastela have a beer with the guys and relaxing. In bed early at 10 and up at 6. Went to the local cafe for a coffee and toastadas (as one does off a morning) along with a few of the other maddies. Whilst engaged in waking up we see two buses pull up outside and disgorge about 100 bodies onto the pavement. This was the start of the downfall.
The Goths, Visigoths and Suevi (from whom the Spanish are descended) had arrived in force though this lot looked more like British daytrippers out for a stroll around Hyde park. All suitably prepared for a 20 mile hike with with their wee day packs on their backs and sandals, gutties, trainers on their about to be very sore feet. We hardened perigrinos were fair disgusted, not to say fair pissed off at these incomers filling up our trails.
Eventually we got our just reward when passing the lame, halt and the very knackered as we moved along the trail. So much for the spiritual development of the Camino.
Passes through Samos and had a tour round the monestary. Very impressive place. The cloisters are superb. Link to it at: http://www.galiciaguide.com/Samos.html
We were shown round by a young priest who looked like he was hardly out of school.
One of the cloister walls has a chiseled inscription commemorating a vist to the monestary by Franco. This was not getting mentioned as we passed by so I had to ask, well it was my duty to wind him up a wee bit. There was a classic moment of "Oh Merde" before he answered. We then moved on a wee bit quicker than before.
The upper floor is literally wall to wall murals depicting the life of St. Benedict. They have been created in the past 50 years by different Spanish artists.
One of the artists is a famous Hollywood cinemaphotographer (never heard of him) but in his mural he has used the face of Charelton Heston fpr St. Benedict and Sophie Loren as a nun. The latter could be tongue in cheek but the Chariman of the National Rifle Association of American as St. Benedict is a bit rich. The young guy seemed very pleased about it though. Maybe the artist is taking the urine out of the poor fathers. I hope so.
In another mural the faces of some of our world poloticians have been used to represent Church and royal dignitaries. Vladimir Putin is in there.
Left there after an hour and headed off for Sarria where due to the place getting absolutely mobbed with an influx of Spanish perigrinos I ended up in a B&B though without the second B.
These are not the day trippers who had thankfully disappeared into thin air. These are the genuine pilgrims who take the opportunity of the first week of their holidays to
walk the 100km required to obtain the Compostela. And more power to their elbow (and the rest of them) for doing it ´cause it ain´t easy.
The problem for the long distance guys and gals is that with beds now at a premium we have to decide whether to get up earlier in the morning to charge ahead to make sure you get a bed to sleep in (or not as the number of potential snorers increases). Some people, especially the young church groups from all over Spain, were getting up at 4.30. No problem there except they are making a racket wakening the rest of us up too. I charged ahead one day only, Sarria to Portomarin, and never again. However as an example of the tumult I was 92nd in line for a 100 bed albergue. The police had to open the town hall to let people have a floor to lie on. It really was like a scene out of a disaster movie. I am sur some people gave up at that, the first, stage.
Well I had intended to say a lot more but time has gone and dinner beckons. Will try to add more tomorrow.
cheers,
ajl
Have moved on a lot since I last had the chance and energy to add to the missive.
As you may remember I was in Triacastela have a beer with the guys and relaxing. In bed early at 10 and up at 6. Went to the local cafe for a coffee and toastadas (as one does off a morning) along with a few of the other maddies. Whilst engaged in waking up we see two buses pull up outside and disgorge about 100 bodies onto the pavement. This was the start of the downfall.
The Goths, Visigoths and Suevi (from whom the Spanish are descended) had arrived in force though this lot looked more like British daytrippers out for a stroll around Hyde park. All suitably prepared for a 20 mile hike with with their wee day packs on their backs and sandals, gutties, trainers on their about to be very sore feet. We hardened perigrinos were fair disgusted, not to say fair pissed off at these incomers filling up our trails.
Eventually we got our just reward when passing the lame, halt and the very knackered as we moved along the trail. So much for the spiritual development of the Camino.
Passes through Samos and had a tour round the monestary. Very impressive place. The cloisters are superb. Link to it at: http://www.galiciaguide.com/Samos.html
We were shown round by a young priest who looked like he was hardly out of school.
One of the cloister walls has a chiseled inscription commemorating a vist to the monestary by Franco. This was not getting mentioned as we passed by so I had to ask, well it was my duty to wind him up a wee bit. There was a classic moment of "Oh Merde" before he answered. We then moved on a wee bit quicker than before.
The upper floor is literally wall to wall murals depicting the life of St. Benedict. They have been created in the past 50 years by different Spanish artists.
One of the artists is a famous Hollywood cinemaphotographer (never heard of him) but in his mural he has used the face of Charelton Heston fpr St. Benedict and Sophie Loren as a nun. The latter could be tongue in cheek but the Chariman of the National Rifle Association of American as St. Benedict is a bit rich. The young guy seemed very pleased about it though. Maybe the artist is taking the urine out of the poor fathers. I hope so.
In another mural the faces of some of our world poloticians have been used to represent Church and royal dignitaries. Vladimir Putin is in there.
Left there after an hour and headed off for Sarria where due to the place getting absolutely mobbed with an influx of Spanish perigrinos I ended up in a B&B though without the second B.
These are not the day trippers who had thankfully disappeared into thin air. These are the genuine pilgrims who take the opportunity of the first week of their holidays to
walk the 100km required to obtain the Compostela. And more power to their elbow (and the rest of them) for doing it ´cause it ain´t easy.
The problem for the long distance guys and gals is that with beds now at a premium we have to decide whether to get up earlier in the morning to charge ahead to make sure you get a bed to sleep in (or not as the number of potential snorers increases). Some people, especially the young church groups from all over Spain, were getting up at 4.30. No problem there except they are making a racket wakening the rest of us up too. I charged ahead one day only, Sarria to Portomarin, and never again. However as an example of the tumult I was 92nd in line for a 100 bed albergue. The police had to open the town hall to let people have a floor to lie on. It really was like a scene out of a disaster movie. I am sur some people gave up at that, the first, stage.
Well I had intended to say a lot more but time has gone and dinner beckons. Will try to add more tomorrow.
cheers,
ajl
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
Down the Hill
Hi Folks,
Third posting for the day. Must have too much energy.
Anyway, left o´Cebreiro at about 6.00am and made my way down the hill to Tricastela. This is the point at which my right ankle gave up th ghost last year so I took a lot of care and time about the journey. It was very pleasent, cool and relaxing.
Got to Triacastela and into the new añbergue with modcons such as hot showers, kitchen, internet connections, and all the modern pilgrim could want. Had great beds too (nearly forgot about those). Lounged about eating and having the occasional halfpint shandy.
Went to the evening Mass. The place was mobbed but I was the only English speaking person there and I got elected to read out the English prayers for pilgrims alonside the german, french and italian representatives. A nice memory.
Got a hug from the priest at the end of it. That was not too bad, he kissed everyone else. Foreigners eh.
Had a nice evening meal with the guys, relaxed and went to bed early.
cheers,
ajl
Third posting for the day. Must have too much energy.
Anyway, left o´Cebreiro at about 6.00am and made my way down the hill to Tricastela. This is the point at which my right ankle gave up th ghost last year so I took a lot of care and time about the journey. It was very pleasent, cool and relaxing.
Got to Triacastela and into the new añbergue with modcons such as hot showers, kitchen, internet connections, and all the modern pilgrim could want. Had great beds too (nearly forgot about those). Lounged about eating and having the occasional halfpint shandy.
Went to the evening Mass. The place was mobbed but I was the only English speaking person there and I got elected to read out the English prayers for pilgrims alonside the german, french and italian representatives. A nice memory.
Got a hug from the priest at the end of it. That was not too bad, he kissed everyone else. Foreigners eh.
Had a nice evening meal with the guys, relaxed and went to bed early.
cheers,
ajl
Up the Hill
Hi All,
Woke at 6.00am and had a terrible time getting organised. I am usually very good at getting everything sorted out and packed away for the moring mainly to avoid annoying those who wish to sleep on a bit. However this morning I was all over the place.
In my tired state, on arriving at Ave Fenix, I seem to have emptied the whole rucksack onto the floor and put nothing away. Given that the stuff is sorted into seperate plastic bags (courtesy of Morrisons, Sainsbury, Body Shop, etc) you can imagine the noise that packing can create. I decided to take it all out into the courtyard and sort it out there. Three trips before I finally cleared my gear out of the room. And I really only had the night before was the one small can of San Miguel, the name given to Spanish pish.
Decided that discretion would replace valour today and allowed myself to be convinced (did not take much) that it would be better for the hospitalero to transport the rucksack up the hill thus freeing me of the burden. Wise move ´cause I don´t think I would have managed the top with the pack.
As a result I had a nice reasonably restful day, ie restful for a 20mile walk that is, and arrived at the top of the hill simply knackered rather than absolutely knackered. The view, the view, the view. If for nothing else it is all worth it for the view. I truely cannot describe it, it is so beautiful.
Met up with the two guys again (James and Rob) and had dinner with them and a young Swiss guy, Sebastian, who had walked from Geneva. He was on a gap year, had worked as a bin man to get the pennies together and took off through France and Spain. He is 19. What a guy.
Once again early bed, ready for going down the hill. Something is reminding me of "The Grand Old Duke of York".
cheers,
Arturo
PS I was given the Body Shop bag by a female friend.
Woke at 6.00am and had a terrible time getting organised. I am usually very good at getting everything sorted out and packed away for the moring mainly to avoid annoying those who wish to sleep on a bit. However this morning I was all over the place.
In my tired state, on arriving at Ave Fenix, I seem to have emptied the whole rucksack onto the floor and put nothing away. Given that the stuff is sorted into seperate plastic bags (courtesy of Morrisons, Sainsbury, Body Shop, etc) you can imagine the noise that packing can create. I decided to take it all out into the courtyard and sort it out there. Three trips before I finally cleared my gear out of the room. And I really only had the night before was the one small can of San Miguel, the name given to Spanish pish.
Decided that discretion would replace valour today and allowed myself to be convinced (did not take much) that it would be better for the hospitalero to transport the rucksack up the hill thus freeing me of the burden. Wise move ´cause I don´t think I would have managed the top with the pack.
As a result I had a nice reasonably restful day, ie restful for a 20mile walk that is, and arrived at the top of the hill simply knackered rather than absolutely knackered. The view, the view, the view. If for nothing else it is all worth it for the view. I truely cannot describe it, it is so beautiful.
Met up with the two guys again (James and Rob) and had dinner with them and a young Swiss guy, Sebastian, who had walked from Geneva. He was on a gap year, had worked as a bin man to get the pennies together and took off through France and Spain. He is 19. What a guy.
Once again early bed, ready for going down the hill. Something is reminding me of "The Grand Old Duke of York".
cheers,
Arturo
PS I was given the Body Shop bag by a female friend.
Heading to the foot of the hill
Hi,
Left Molinaseca at 6.00am heading for VillaFranca, a modest 18miles ahead. Cheated a bit by cutting out the tour round the houses and headed straight for the town of Ponferrada. This cuts 4km off the total but enough is enough. If that is all St. Peter is going to worry about then there will be no problems. Somehow I think it won´t be that easy.
Ponferrada has a big castle was which built by the Templars and is very impressive, especially at 7.00am. The Templars too were very impressive, so much so that the then French king and Pope got a wee bit jittery about them and decided to cuff them which they duly did, they having more sojers than the Templars. These people did not mess about when it came to putting people down. They wanted you down, down you went.
The link:
http://geriandricky.maxwells.net.nz/2000/10/06/ponferradas-templar-castle/
shows a rather pixelated image of the castle. It is much nicer than this.
And if you want a wee bit of background on the Templars here is your chance:
http://medievalhistory.suite101.com/article.cfm/the_templars_a_cursed_knighthood
The rest of Ponferrada is like any other big town though the fact that it is in Spain and I was in it was very interesting for me. The rest of the day was spent travelling through wine growing country (hasn´t grown yet) and the going was relatively easy for most of the way. Met a Guardia Civil patrol driving through the farm roads which surprised me a bit given that the palce was pretty empty, ie me and the local wildlife which consists mostly of hens. Did someone say something?
Once again the sun decided to shine and the last 8kn was a bit of a struggle, vineyards, hens and cow dung not withstanding. As the bold cousin Frankie would say, breathing in, breathing out, was the order of the day.
Got to VillaFranca in time for a cold shower (they do not do hot and the water is specially piped in from Siberia, I mean it is truly freezing) . Had my by now usual tin of tuna with bread and my afternoon collapse.
The albergue is called Ave Fenix and is quite a famous place, ie it burned down and the main man, Jose, built it again, hence the name, ie Ave Fenix not Jose. Jose does Rieke healing. He did not get to my knee though other people had the healing experience. Me I stuck with the beer for that healing feeeling.
Met up with a load of people over dinner at the albergue which was lentil soup by the gallon (wonderful) followed by lovely salad and fried eggs. Strange mixture but down it went and stayed there too. Had a good time.
Met a lady of rather advanced years (and I am a youngster) who had cycled fromHolland (I tell you they are all nutters), is going to Santiago and cycling back again. I suppose this is a bit better than walking there and back. She seemed happy enough in a kind of nutter way.
This was also the point at which we (ie the hardend, snobby, gallas, full of our exploits perigrinos) noticed that the tourist perigrinos had entered the Camino. Sniff, sniff. We shall see how they get on.
Off to bed to get ready for the big hill (O´Cebreio) taking my indignence with me. Doesn´t keep you warm but.
cheers,
ajl
Left Molinaseca at 6.00am heading for VillaFranca, a modest 18miles ahead. Cheated a bit by cutting out the tour round the houses and headed straight for the town of Ponferrada. This cuts 4km off the total but enough is enough. If that is all St. Peter is going to worry about then there will be no problems. Somehow I think it won´t be that easy.
Ponferrada has a big castle was which built by the Templars and is very impressive, especially at 7.00am. The Templars too were very impressive, so much so that the then French king and Pope got a wee bit jittery about them and decided to cuff them which they duly did, they having more sojers than the Templars. These people did not mess about when it came to putting people down. They wanted you down, down you went.
The link:
http://geriandricky.maxwells.net.nz/2000/10/06/ponferradas-templar-castle/
shows a rather pixelated image of the castle. It is much nicer than this.
And if you want a wee bit of background on the Templars here is your chance:
http://medievalhistory.suite101.com/article.cfm/the_templars_a_cursed_knighthood
The rest of Ponferrada is like any other big town though the fact that it is in Spain and I was in it was very interesting for me. The rest of the day was spent travelling through wine growing country (hasn´t grown yet) and the going was relatively easy for most of the way. Met a Guardia Civil patrol driving through the farm roads which surprised me a bit given that the palce was pretty empty, ie me and the local wildlife which consists mostly of hens. Did someone say something?
Once again the sun decided to shine and the last 8kn was a bit of a struggle, vineyards, hens and cow dung not withstanding. As the bold cousin Frankie would say, breathing in, breathing out, was the order of the day.
Got to VillaFranca in time for a cold shower (they do not do hot and the water is specially piped in from Siberia, I mean it is truly freezing) . Had my by now usual tin of tuna with bread and my afternoon collapse.
The albergue is called Ave Fenix and is quite a famous place, ie it burned down and the main man, Jose, built it again, hence the name, ie Ave Fenix not Jose. Jose does Rieke healing. He did not get to my knee though other people had the healing experience. Me I stuck with the beer for that healing feeeling.
Met up with a load of people over dinner at the albergue which was lentil soup by the gallon (wonderful) followed by lovely salad and fried eggs. Strange mixture but down it went and stayed there too. Had a good time.
Met a lady of rather advanced years (and I am a youngster) who had cycled fromHolland (I tell you they are all nutters), is going to Santiago and cycling back again. I suppose this is a bit better than walking there and back. She seemed happy enough in a kind of nutter way.
This was also the point at which we (ie the hardend, snobby, gallas, full of our exploits perigrinos) noticed that the tourist perigrinos had entered the Camino. Sniff, sniff. We shall see how they get on.
Off to bed to get ready for the big hill (O´Cebreio) taking my indignence with me. Doesn´t keep you warm but.
cheers,
ajl
Monday, 4 August 2008
Going Down Hill
Hi All,
Leaving Rabinal at the crack of 7.30 was a bit tough but hey, I am a Peregrino or someting akin to one at that time of the morning.
If I keep going on about how wonderful the scenery is then bear with me, it is just stunning, especially early in the morning when you have the world to yourself. Managed to get to the "Cruz de Ferro", the very top of the Camino, after a couple of hours walking.
One of the Cruz webpages is http://cvc.cervantes.es/actcult/camino_santiago/decima_etapa/irago/
It is in Spanish though but the pictures are nice. Seems I can´t get a Google result which is not in Spanish and I can´t muck about with the computer here.
The base of the Cruz is a huge pile of stones which supposedly people have brought from their home town and placed on the pile. It would not be so bad if people just left stones but the place is a bit of a coup with all sorts of personal items (socks, gutties, pictures, etc) nailed to the pole. Inevitably they fall off and get scattered around the place.
Well guess what, I forgot to bring a stone with me (again) so I thought that it would be a good idea to take one away with me and start a wee pile in Giffnock. Never know it might catch on. A "Cruz de Guiness" for all those that get stoned. Anyway enough mince from me.
Just after leaving the cross spot I met a Dutch couple who had started walking the Comino del Norte starting in St Jean in France and going to Santiago and were now walking the Camino Frances from Santiago to St. Jean. They had two dogs with them who started out as St. Bernards but after that journey look more like Scots Terriers.
Believe me, all the mega walkers are Dutch. I never knew Holland was such a horrible place that you would walk thousands of kilometres just to get away from it.
For those interested the following is a wee link to the Comino del Norte:
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Grandes+Rutas/Rutas/Rutas/0/Camino+del+Norte?Language=en
This also has a link to the Camino Frances.
Back to the walk.
At the same time as meeting the Dutch couple I met an American girl (from Texas no less) who is starting an MSc in Fine Arts at Lieden University in Holland. Thought it might be a good idea to walk through Spain as a starter for ten. Is there a strong Dutch influence in Texas?
We walked in Molinaseca together jibbering about all sorts of things.
This part of the trail is very hilly (well it would be since we are at the top of a bloody big mountain) with lots of scrub and heather. Not particularly appealing other than you can see for miles and miles and m.... you can sing the rest yourselves. It was roasty toasty hot and that was a bit of a challange. The last section into Molinaseca is along a path which has a clear view of the road way down below and I´m that good with heights too. However managed to steel myself and got to the bar at the real Roman bridge. Needed a wee sip to settle the nerves.
As usual got into the Albergue, washed me, washed the clothes and slept. Woke up, ate and slept. Great company for one and all was I. Oh and the Italians arrived but were put into a different dormitory. Someone must have spread the word.
cheers,
ajl
Leaving Rabinal at the crack of 7.30 was a bit tough but hey, I am a Peregrino or someting akin to one at that time of the morning.
If I keep going on about how wonderful the scenery is then bear with me, it is just stunning, especially early in the morning when you have the world to yourself. Managed to get to the "Cruz de Ferro", the very top of the Camino, after a couple of hours walking.
One of the Cruz webpages is http://cvc.cervantes.es/actcult/camino_santiago/decima_etapa/irago/
It is in Spanish though but the pictures are nice. Seems I can´t get a Google result which is not in Spanish and I can´t muck about with the computer here.
The base of the Cruz is a huge pile of stones which supposedly people have brought from their home town and placed on the pile. It would not be so bad if people just left stones but the place is a bit of a coup with all sorts of personal items (socks, gutties, pictures, etc) nailed to the pole. Inevitably they fall off and get scattered around the place.
Well guess what, I forgot to bring a stone with me (again) so I thought that it would be a good idea to take one away with me and start a wee pile in Giffnock. Never know it might catch on. A "Cruz de Guiness" for all those that get stoned. Anyway enough mince from me.
Just after leaving the cross spot I met a Dutch couple who had started walking the Comino del Norte starting in St Jean in France and going to Santiago and were now walking the Camino Frances from Santiago to St. Jean. They had two dogs with them who started out as St. Bernards but after that journey look more like Scots Terriers.
Believe me, all the mega walkers are Dutch. I never knew Holland was such a horrible place that you would walk thousands of kilometres just to get away from it.
For those interested the following is a wee link to the Comino del Norte:
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Grandes+Rutas/Rutas/Rutas/0/Camino+del+Norte?Language=en
This also has a link to the Camino Frances.
Back to the walk.
At the same time as meeting the Dutch couple I met an American girl (from Texas no less) who is starting an MSc in Fine Arts at Lieden University in Holland. Thought it might be a good idea to walk through Spain as a starter for ten. Is there a strong Dutch influence in Texas?
We walked in Molinaseca together jibbering about all sorts of things.
This part of the trail is very hilly (well it would be since we are at the top of a bloody big mountain) with lots of scrub and heather. Not particularly appealing other than you can see for miles and miles and m.... you can sing the rest yourselves. It was roasty toasty hot and that was a bit of a challange. The last section into Molinaseca is along a path which has a clear view of the road way down below and I´m that good with heights too. However managed to steel myself and got to the bar at the real Roman bridge. Needed a wee sip to settle the nerves.
As usual got into the Albergue, washed me, washed the clothes and slept. Woke up, ate and slept. Great company for one and all was I. Oh and the Italians arrived but were put into a different dormitory. Someone must have spread the word.
cheers,
ajl
Sunday, 3 August 2008
The Move to Rabinal
Hi,
Difficult to follow the days just now, they all blend into each other. It is Sunday. I had to ask someone and he had to ask somone else (oh yes he did).
Reached Rabinal (from Astorga) last Thursday (I think) with out too much trouble. Scenery improving with every step. Got here early (noon) thinking that the Albergue opened at 1pm. Times have changed and opening time is now 2pm.
However it was Tuesday and the hospitaleros had to go to market to get food for the breakfast which is included in the price (which you get to set). They went to Astorga from which we had just walked. Hung around looking at the various churches and dossed for a wee while at the church courtyard for a couple of hours. Finally got in at 3pm.
This is a wonderful albergue. Massive garden, good beds and staffed by really nice people. One of hospitaleras was born and raised in Glenboig (and admitted it too). Like Calderbank is better?
You may remember I said something about loud Italians. Well they followed me to Rabinal only this time they came mob handed. They made a wonderful pasta meal for about 2o of us and dinner was just one big laugh. We paid for it though when they decided that going to bed at 10.30 was a bit too early and continued to talk (loudly) for another hour.
We, ie the non-Italians, get very precious about our sleep.
Next day is up and over the hill and down to Molinaseca.
cheers,
ajl
Difficult to follow the days just now, they all blend into each other. It is Sunday. I had to ask someone and he had to ask somone else (oh yes he did).
Reached Rabinal (from Astorga) last Thursday (I think) with out too much trouble. Scenery improving with every step. Got here early (noon) thinking that the Albergue opened at 1pm. Times have changed and opening time is now 2pm.
However it was Tuesday and the hospitaleros had to go to market to get food for the breakfast which is included in the price (which you get to set). They went to Astorga from which we had just walked. Hung around looking at the various churches and dossed for a wee while at the church courtyard for a couple of hours. Finally got in at 3pm.
This is a wonderful albergue. Massive garden, good beds and staffed by really nice people. One of hospitaleras was born and raised in Glenboig (and admitted it too). Like Calderbank is better?
You may remember I said something about loud Italians. Well they followed me to Rabinal only this time they came mob handed. They made a wonderful pasta meal for about 2o of us and dinner was just one big laugh. We paid for it though when they decided that going to bed at 10.30 was a bit too early and continued to talk (loudly) for another hour.
We, ie the non-Italians, get very precious about our sleep.
Next day is up and over the hill and down to Molinaseca.
cheers,
ajl
Monday, 28 July 2008
Under Way at last
Hi,
Finally got to start the walk for real on Sunday. Great day out of Leon on the way to Vilar de Mazarife (15mls). Hot, hot and hot and glad to get there. Left knee not happy but by dint of good fortune the guy who runs the place is a physio. Did a number on the knee. Great place to stay if you can cope with the vegitarian meals. Very peaceful.
Met up with two good guys, James (a teacher from Canada)and Rob (a Classics student at St. Andrews). Enjoy the chat though why they put up with an old duffer like me I don´t know (nor ask).
Walked to Astorga today (20mls). Fine cool weather which was just the dab. Bit tough going but it is a nice town.
One of the main reasons for pushing on to Astorga was to visit the "Bishop´s Palace", a Guadi creation which is now a museum. It looks superb from the outside, a bit of a Walt Disney castle. Inside it looks, well we did not get inside. It is Monday and the bloody thing is closed on Mondays. Happy bunnies one and all. Image of the Palace at website:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Astorga_Cathedral_Bishops_palace_2005.jpg
The building on the left is Astorga Cathedral. It does not have the same art collection as Burgos but it is absolutely enormous and I mean big. Coupled with the very high position of rather small windows the interior is pretty gloomy. As usual there are side chapels off the main area (I think it is called the nave) but again unlike the other 3 cathedrals visited thus far, all the alter frontpieces are very similar. It looks like all the imagination went into the building and it´s elaborate exterior rather than the interior design.
Lots more to see in Astorga ranging from a whole set of Roman ruins to a chocolate museum. Resisited the temptation of the chocolate museum.
The albergue is great, full of Italians whos idea of quiet is set at a basic loud level. Very nice people but try and get an afternoon´s sleep.
A great benefit of this one (St. Javier) is that it is associated with one of the posh resturants in town, the Guadi Resturant no less. Great big dining room and only two of us sitting in there dressed in the t-shirts, shorts and sandals. Had the head honcho all to ourselves. They even changed the cutlery for the second course. Luxury. This may all seem very mundane but when you are eating what we having been eating, this is a big deal.
Off up the mountain tomorrow to stay in Rabanal del Camino, one of the nicest albergues on the route. Will report when I can.
cheers,
ajl
Finally got to start the walk for real on Sunday. Great day out of Leon on the way to Vilar de Mazarife (15mls). Hot, hot and hot and glad to get there. Left knee not happy but by dint of good fortune the guy who runs the place is a physio. Did a number on the knee. Great place to stay if you can cope with the vegitarian meals. Very peaceful.
Met up with two good guys, James (a teacher from Canada)and Rob (a Classics student at St. Andrews). Enjoy the chat though why they put up with an old duffer like me I don´t know (nor ask).
Walked to Astorga today (20mls). Fine cool weather which was just the dab. Bit tough going but it is a nice town.
One of the main reasons for pushing on to Astorga was to visit the "Bishop´s Palace", a Guadi creation which is now a museum. It looks superb from the outside, a bit of a Walt Disney castle. Inside it looks, well we did not get inside. It is Monday and the bloody thing is closed on Mondays. Happy bunnies one and all. Image of the Palace at website:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Astorga_Cathedral_Bishops_palace_2005.jpg
The building on the left is Astorga Cathedral. It does not have the same art collection as Burgos but it is absolutely enormous and I mean big. Coupled with the very high position of rather small windows the interior is pretty gloomy. As usual there are side chapels off the main area (I think it is called the nave) but again unlike the other 3 cathedrals visited thus far, all the alter frontpieces are very similar. It looks like all the imagination went into the building and it´s elaborate exterior rather than the interior design.
Lots more to see in Astorga ranging from a whole set of Roman ruins to a chocolate museum. Resisited the temptation of the chocolate museum.
The albergue is great, full of Italians whos idea of quiet is set at a basic loud level. Very nice people but try and get an afternoon´s sleep.
A great benefit of this one (St. Javier) is that it is associated with one of the posh resturants in town, the Guadi Resturant no less. Great big dining room and only two of us sitting in there dressed in the t-shirts, shorts and sandals. Had the head honcho all to ourselves. They even changed the cutlery for the second course. Luxury. This may all seem very mundane but when you are eating what we having been eating, this is a big deal.
Off up the mountain tomorrow to stay in Rabanal del Camino, one of the nicest albergues on the route. Will report when I can.
cheers,
ajl
Saturday, 26 July 2008
Change of Plan
Well so much for striking out on the road. Managed to get 6km (to Cizur Menor) when the world fell out of lots of things and I had to return back to Pamplona by bus.
Took the decision that if I was going to have take it easy with the walking it would be better to take it easy during the "real walk" and not the practice one at the beginning. Consequently I got the bus to Burgos, treated myself (thank God) to a hotel room and felt the better for it.
Today was good enough that I got to roam around the Cathedral taking my time to see the various chapels and monumentous variety of artistic output that all that South Amercian money supported. Even bought the wee guide book (in English) and some scabby wee bam whipped it off a table where I had left whilst taking pictures. Well that has out paid to that naafs indulgences.
Took the train to Leon where I reside at present. Back to the peregrino albergues, 50 to a room. Good for the soul, I'm told.
Been to the clinic and got sorted out with potions for the insect bites and resultant swellings so should be ok for tomorrow's attempt at hoofing for God and St. James.
Oh yes, for the readers who are interested in weddings, I have video of two, one in Burgos this morning and one in Leon this afternoon. Boy does this kid get around.
cheers,
ajl
Took the decision that if I was going to have take it easy with the walking it would be better to take it easy during the "real walk" and not the practice one at the beginning. Consequently I got the bus to Burgos, treated myself (thank God) to a hotel room and felt the better for it.
Today was good enough that I got to roam around the Cathedral taking my time to see the various chapels and monumentous variety of artistic output that all that South Amercian money supported. Even bought the wee guide book (in English) and some scabby wee bam whipped it off a table where I had left whilst taking pictures. Well that has out paid to that naafs indulgences.
Took the train to Leon where I reside at present. Back to the peregrino albergues, 50 to a room. Good for the soul, I'm told.
Been to the clinic and got sorted out with potions for the insect bites and resultant swellings so should be ok for tomorrow's attempt at hoofing for God and St. James.
Oh yes, for the readers who are interested in weddings, I have video of two, one in Burgos this morning and one in Leon this afternoon. Boy does this kid get around.
cheers,
ajl
Thursday, 24 July 2008
Started at Last
Hi All,
Arrived in St. JeanPied de Port safe and well in the company of a Danish matron and an Italian musician. We managed to mumble some conversation (in Italian, French, Spanish and English) as we passed through the beautiful scenery on the afternoon slow train.
Got the credential (pilgrim passport) which allows me to stay at cheap youth hostels along the way. Stayed the night in "´L`Esprit de Chemin" again and ate a lovely meal of soup and vegitarian pie. It was a move up the culinary ladder from last year's spinich pie.
As always the gathering was international ranging from Hungary, Ireland and even Australia. The Australian was a bit non-plussed with the vegitarian approach to food but, like the rest of us, made the best of it. They do supply the wine though which can make up for lots.
The big surprise was meeting a lady, Agnes (from Holland), whom Mark and I met last year on the Camino. She is back working at the hostel for a couple of weeks just for the fun of it and then off with her husband north along the France section of the Camino heading for Le Puy. Small world or what?
Kicked off the walk over the hill on Wednesday morning at 7.30. For those that don't know the route, the hill is bigger than Ben Nevis (4700 feet) and a test of stamina. Well my stamina was well and truely tested. Half dead is not the phrase.
It didn't help that the rucksack was at least 2kg overweight, I am 4kg overweight and it was roasting the posterior off one (and all). As I struggled up and along it became clear that those who said "yiraffyirheid" were not completely wrong. Never again. My mental days are gone along with most of my joints.
And the effects are not yet over. On frequent occasions I had to lie down to get a rest and at one point I chose a nice shady clump of trees and dozed there for about 30 minutes. During that period I must have been a God send for the local insect population and now I am displaying a varied range of insect bites. My face was never pretty but it would really frighten the weans now.
Finally got to Roncesvalles on the other side of the hill in España. Met lots new people of all ages, sizes and nationalities. Went to the local mass for peregrinos in the Monastery church. It's been around since 1219 and most of those attending must, like myself, have felt as if they had been around for that long too. Slept like a baby and snored like a bear (apparently).
Took the bus to Pamplona, waving to all the perigrinos as I passed them by. Hated doing it but....I could get used to this way of doing the Camino.
Took and hour to get to Pamplona, passing through all the wee towns that I had walked through last year.
Managed to get lost trying to find a hostel no longer existed but got to see the famous bullring (from the outside) as compensation. Would have had a coffee at the the famous Cafe Iruña (where Heminway used to hang out) but I didn't want to spend all my holiday money in the one day.
Finally got sorted out in the newly opened hostel and moved out to see the city.
It is surprisingly small which is handy in that all the sights worth seeing (churches mainly) are close together. It is really a beautiful city.
Spent a couple of hours in the Gothic Cathedral and that is just some place. Lots of photos to bore those that want to see them. Where did all the money come from to build these edifices? South America probablt.
Come two o'clock the place shuts down until about six, hence I am taking chance to add something to the blog.
Off now to visit some more sights and get fed. Back on the road tomorrow, walking to Puente La Reina. Only one hill and in relative terms it is a piece of cake.
cheers,
The Bitten One.
Arrived in St. JeanPied de Port safe and well in the company of a Danish matron and an Italian musician. We managed to mumble some conversation (in Italian, French, Spanish and English) as we passed through the beautiful scenery on the afternoon slow train.
Got the credential (pilgrim passport) which allows me to stay at cheap youth hostels along the way. Stayed the night in "´L`Esprit de Chemin" again and ate a lovely meal of soup and vegitarian pie. It was a move up the culinary ladder from last year's spinich pie.
As always the gathering was international ranging from Hungary, Ireland and even Australia. The Australian was a bit non-plussed with the vegitarian approach to food but, like the rest of us, made the best of it. They do supply the wine though which can make up for lots.
The big surprise was meeting a lady, Agnes (from Holland), whom Mark and I met last year on the Camino. She is back working at the hostel for a couple of weeks just for the fun of it and then off with her husband north along the France section of the Camino heading for Le Puy. Small world or what?
Kicked off the walk over the hill on Wednesday morning at 7.30. For those that don't know the route, the hill is bigger than Ben Nevis (4700 feet) and a test of stamina. Well my stamina was well and truely tested. Half dead is not the phrase.
It didn't help that the rucksack was at least 2kg overweight, I am 4kg overweight and it was roasting the posterior off one (and all). As I struggled up and along it became clear that those who said "yiraffyirheid" were not completely wrong. Never again. My mental days are gone along with most of my joints.
And the effects are not yet over. On frequent occasions I had to lie down to get a rest and at one point I chose a nice shady clump of trees and dozed there for about 30 minutes. During that period I must have been a God send for the local insect population and now I am displaying a varied range of insect bites. My face was never pretty but it would really frighten the weans now.
Finally got to Roncesvalles on the other side of the hill in España. Met lots new people of all ages, sizes and nationalities. Went to the local mass for peregrinos in the Monastery church. It's been around since 1219 and most of those attending must, like myself, have felt as if they had been around for that long too. Slept like a baby and snored like a bear (apparently).
Took the bus to Pamplona, waving to all the perigrinos as I passed them by. Hated doing it but....I could get used to this way of doing the Camino.
Took and hour to get to Pamplona, passing through all the wee towns that I had walked through last year.
Managed to get lost trying to find a hostel no longer existed but got to see the famous bullring (from the outside) as compensation. Would have had a coffee at the the famous Cafe Iruña (where Heminway used to hang out) but I didn't want to spend all my holiday money in the one day.
Finally got sorted out in the newly opened hostel and moved out to see the city.
It is surprisingly small which is handy in that all the sights worth seeing (churches mainly) are close together. It is really a beautiful city.
Spent a couple of hours in the Gothic Cathedral and that is just some place. Lots of photos to bore those that want to see them. Where did all the money come from to build these edifices? South America probablt.
Come two o'clock the place shuts down until about six, hence I am taking chance to add something to the blog.
Off now to visit some more sights and get fed. Back on the road tomorrow, walking to Puente La Reina. Only one hill and in relative terms it is a piece of cake.
cheers,
The Bitten One.
Monday, 16 June 2008
The First Post
The URL for this blog, http://yiraffyirheid.blogspot.com, is in recognition of my pal Brian's assessment of my mental state with respect to returning to the 'Path of Pain' for another season of aches, blisters, knackered knees, mosquitos and peregrino menus. However it is early days yet and I might be lucky and break a leg before the 22nd of July, the launch date.
The reason though for starting this blog early is to put a stamp on the day on which mi amigo Mark once again entered Santiago de Compostela, probably in the rain, probably in pain and probably saying never again.
Well done the man and make sure you book the Hotel Suza for next year.
Look forward to hearing the stories when you get back. Air Ambulance still flying?
The reason though for starting this blog early is to put a stamp on the day on which mi amigo Mark once again entered Santiago de Compostela, probably in the rain, probably in pain and probably saying never again.
Well done the man and make sure you book the Hotel Suza for next year.
Look forward to hearing the stories when you get back. Air Ambulance still flying?
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