Hi All,
Have moved on a lot since I last had the chance and energy to add to the missive.
As you may remember I was in Triacastela have a beer with the guys and relaxing. In bed early at 10 and up at 6. Went to the local cafe for a coffee and toastadas (as one does off a morning) along with a few of the other maddies. Whilst engaged in waking up we see two buses pull up outside and disgorge about 100 bodies onto the pavement. This was the start of the downfall.
The Goths, Visigoths and Suevi (from whom the Spanish are descended) had arrived in force though this lot looked more like British daytrippers out for a stroll around Hyde park. All suitably prepared for a 20 mile hike with with their wee day packs on their backs and sandals, gutties, trainers on their about to be very sore feet. We hardened perigrinos were fair disgusted, not to say fair pissed off at these incomers filling up our trails.
Eventually we got our just reward when passing the lame, halt and the very knackered as we moved along the trail. So much for the spiritual development of the Camino.
Passes through Samos and had a tour round the monestary. Very impressive place. The cloisters are superb. Link to it at: http://www.galiciaguide.com/Samos.html
We were shown round by a young priest who looked like he was hardly out of school.
One of the cloister walls has a chiseled inscription commemorating a vist to the monestary by Franco. This was not getting mentioned as we passed by so I had to ask, well it was my duty to wind him up a wee bit. There was a classic moment of "Oh Merde" before he answered. We then moved on a wee bit quicker than before.
The upper floor is literally wall to wall murals depicting the life of St. Benedict. They have been created in the past 50 years by different Spanish artists.
One of the artists is a famous Hollywood cinemaphotographer (never heard of him) but in his mural he has used the face of Charelton Heston fpr St. Benedict and Sophie Loren as a nun. The latter could be tongue in cheek but the Chariman of the National Rifle Association of American as St. Benedict is a bit rich. The young guy seemed very pleased about it though. Maybe the artist is taking the urine out of the poor fathers. I hope so.
In another mural the faces of some of our world poloticians have been used to represent Church and royal dignitaries. Vladimir Putin is in there.
Left there after an hour and headed off for Sarria where due to the place getting absolutely mobbed with an influx of Spanish perigrinos I ended up in a B&B though without the second B.
These are not the day trippers who had thankfully disappeared into thin air. These are the genuine pilgrims who take the opportunity of the first week of their holidays to
walk the 100km required to obtain the Compostela. And more power to their elbow (and the rest of them) for doing it ´cause it ain´t easy.
The problem for the long distance guys and gals is that with beds now at a premium we have to decide whether to get up earlier in the morning to charge ahead to make sure you get a bed to sleep in (or not as the number of potential snorers increases). Some people, especially the young church groups from all over Spain, were getting up at 4.30. No problem there except they are making a racket wakening the rest of us up too. I charged ahead one day only, Sarria to Portomarin, and never again. However as an example of the tumult I was 92nd in line for a 100 bed albergue. The police had to open the town hall to let people have a floor to lie on. It really was like a scene out of a disaster movie. I am sur some people gave up at that, the first, stage.
Well I had intended to say a lot more but time has gone and dinner beckons. Will try to add more tomorrow.
cheers,
ajl
Saturday, 9 August 2008
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